By Seth Millstein for Sentient.
Broadcast version by Mark Moran for Iowa News Service reporting for the Sentient-Public News Service Collaboration
Every year, six billion newborn chicks are killed at egg-laying facilities around the world. Usually, they’re either gassed or shredded to death en masse. These aren’t accidental killings, but rather, an established practice in the egg industry known as “chick culling.” Despite a nonbinding pledge to end the practice by 2020, U.S. egg producers still cull, or kill, 300 million chicks a year as a standard operating procedure.
So, why is chick culling still a thing, and when — if ever — will it end?
What Is Chick Culling, and Why Does It Happen?
When a chicken egg hatches, there’s a roughly 50 percent chance that the chick inside will be male. In the meat industry, this is no problem, because male and female chickens can both be raised as “broilers,” or chickens slaughtered for meat. But in the egg industry, male chicks are a problem.
Up until the early 20th century, U.S. farmers used “dual purpose” chicken breeds for both egg-laying and meat. This changed around the 1920s, when farmers began selectively breeding chickens for one purpose or another. Now, 100 years later, the hens at egg-laying facilities have been bred to pump out as many eggs as possible in their lifetimes, while the chickens at meat facilities have been bred to grow fat as quickly as possible.
Thanks to selective breeding, male chicks that are born at egg-laying facilities will not grow to be especially fat, and the quality of their meat will be poor. But as living creatures, they still require food, water and resources to survive, and all of those things cost farmers money — more money than they’d get from selling the chickens for meat.
The financial calculus, though macabre, is clear: it’s cheaper to kill male chicks after birth than to raise them as broilers. And that’s exactly what farmers at egg-laying facilities do.
In the U.S. and Canada, the most common method of chick-culling is maceration — that is, grinding the chicks to death en masse. Chicks are also culled via gassing, suffocation and electrocution.
What Alternatives Are There To Chick Culling?
In 2016, the industry trade group United Egg Producers (UEP) issued a non-binding pledge to phase out chick culling by 2020. That obviously hasn’t happened, but the group says it remains committed to doing so in the future. If and when the industry does finally move away from chick culling, what might that look like?
In-ovo Sexing
Right now, the most popular and viable alternative to chick culling is something called in-ovo sexing. This is the practice of determining the sex of a chicken embryo before the egg hatches, so that eggs with male chicken embryos can be used as animal feed before they’re hatched.
While this technology is still in its infancy, it’s become increasingly popular among European egg producers, in part because several European countries have banned chick culling. Although it has yet to be introduced to the U.S. egg market, at least two companies have committed to using in ovo sexing, one by October of this year.
There are a lot of different in-ovo sexing technologies — around 11 of them, according to a recent review of scientific literature and patents. Some involve drilling a small hole in a newly-laid egg, extracting and testing a fluid sample, and then sealing the hole with beeswax or another substance; other in-ovo sexing technologies are non-invasive, and only require the egg to be optically scanned to determine the sex of the embryo.
Genetic Engineering
Another potential solution to chick culling is gene editing. In recent years, there have been several efforts to create a genetically modified breed of chicken that only lays eggs with female embryos, which would theoretically solve the problem of chick culling entirely. The Israeli company Huminn claims to have accomplished something very close to this.
Huminn’s “Golda hens,” as it refers to them, lay eggs that react differently to blue light depending on the gender of the embryo. If it’s a female, the egg develops normally, but if it’s a male embryo, the blue light halts its development entirely. As such, no male chicks are born, or culled, from Golda hens.
Farming Just One Breed of Chicken
Lastly, there’s a decidedly old-school solution to the problem of chick culling, which is to stop using different breeds of chicken for meat and egg-laying.
For most of agricultural history, this was the norm. Male chickens were eaten, and female chickens were kept around to lay eggs (and then eaten). But over the course of the 20th century, producers selectively bred chickens at an aggressive rate in order to maximize both egg and meat production. As a result, some chicken breeds now lay an unnatural amount of eggs, while others grow to be unnaturally large; the former are used as layers, while the latter are used for meat.
While this specialized breeding is more efficient and profitable for egg producers, it’s also the reason chick culling exists. If farms reverted back to the historical standard, and used dual-purpose chickens like the Rhode Island Red for both eggs and meat, chick culling would be a thing of the past.
Why Aren’t Egg Producers Using These Technologies Already?
Some are. Sort of. In Europe, many egg producers have embraced in-ovo sexing. The largest hatchery in Europe began using in-ovo technology in 2021, and a September 2023 analysis found that 15 percent of egg-laying hens in the European Union were sexed in-ovo. The technology has been implemented in several more European countries since then.
In the U.S, however, in-ovo sexing technology isn’t yet being used. Why?
No Legal Prohibitions Against Chick Culling in the U.S.
As of this writing, chick culling is banned in Austria, France, Germany and Luxembourg. Italy has banned the practice as well, though it doesn’t take effect until the end of 2026, and Switzerland has banned the grinding, but not the gassing, of male chicks.
In the U.S., by contrast, chick culling is fully legal. While there are technological and financial challenges to adopting in-ovo sexing, the lack of any legal pressure to do so is undoubtedly a huge reason for its lack of progress as well.
Problems Scaling
In 2021, United Egg Producers said in a press release that, while it’s still committed to phasing out chick culling, the technology used in Europe isn’t ready to be launched in the U.S., as it doesn’t satisfy: “food safety, ethical standards and a scalable solution.”
Respeggt is one of the companies that has developed in-ovo sexing technology, and its system has been in use at the largest hatchery in Norway for the last year. Over the course of that year, the company’s technology sexed about 20 million eggs in Norway and German. That’s a relatively small fraction of the approximately 600 million eggs that need to be sexed every year in the United States in order to keep up with current rates of egg consumption.
Other Issues With In-Ovo Technology
In addition to scaling issues, in-ovo technology also faces a question of timing. The goal of ending male chick culling — at least, from an animal welfare perspective — is to prevent the pain and suffering chicks feel when they’re killed. In order to do this, however, egg producers need to be able to identify the sex of an embryo before that embryo is capable of feeling pain.
This is where things get tricky, because there’s no consensus yet on the question of when exactly a chicken embryo can feel pain. Some studies put the number at seven days after hatching, while others suggest that it’s closer to 13 days.
That discrepancy matters a lot. If the 13-day estimate is correct, Respeggt’s in-ovo tech is potentially a great way to reduce pain, as it can detect the sex of a chick between eight and 11 days after it’s hatched. But if the seven-day estimate is the accurate one, Respeggt’s technology won’t be able to save any chicken embryos from feeling pain.
That said, since many male chicks are ground up alive, it’s probably still a less painful death than they’d experience if they were born and culled.
Efficiency and Profits
As mentioned earlier, switching to dual-purpose chicken breeds would eliminate the perceived necessity of chick culling. But it would also result in fewer eggs and less chicken meat being produced, as dual-purpose breeds are less efficient than specialized ones. Supply would go down, but without any corresponding drop in demand, poultry prices would increase significantly.
At its current state, in-ovo sexing would also result in pricier eggs, though probably only by a couple of pennies.
Will the U.S. Ever Stop Culling Male Chicks?
Despite the slow progress, there’s still hope that U.S. egg producers will eventually follow Europe’s lead and phase out chick culling.
John Brunnquell is the founder and president of Egg Innovations, a company that sells free-range and pasture-raised chicken eggs. In March, Brunnquell told the New York Times that the main hatchery he uses is set to start using in-ovo sexing technology in early 2025, and will hopefully be selling cull-free eggs later that summer.
It’s unclear which form of in-ovo sexing technology that hatchery will be using, and Brunnquell declined to identify the hatchery, citing a non-disclosure agreement.
In May of this year, the Dutch egg producer Kipster announced a commitment to use in-ovo sexing in its Indiana egg operation by October.
The Bottom Line
Ultimately, the reason most of the egg industry still cull chicks is because it’s legal and more profitable than the alternatives. Animal rights activists have called for a ban on chick culling in the U.S. to no avail. Some animal protection groups, including The Humane League, have been working to persuade brands like Kipster to adopt alternative methods.
The key to getting the rest of the U.S. egg industry on board is to ensure methods like in-ovo sexing are just as profitable as the alternative. Thankfully, there are signs that this is happening. The price of sexing chicks in-ovo has dropped steadily over the last five years, and if cull-free eggs are able to achieve price parity with the competition, male chicks may soon be spared the fate that so many of them face every day.
Seth Millstein wrote this article for Sentient.
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By Seth Millstein for Sentient.
Broadcast version by Farah Siddiqi for California News Service reporting for the Sentient-Public News Service Collaboration
In 2023, UC Berkeley student and activist Zoe Rosenberg removed four severely ill chickens from a slaughterhouse truck in Petaluma, California, and brought them to an animal sanctuary. Now, she's facing over five years in prison. Rosenberg's trial is scheduled for later this year, and her allegations tell a story of horrific conditions at ostensibly "free-range" chicken farms, as well as the steep uphill battle activists face in convincing law enforcement to even investigate allegations of animal cruelty on factory farms.
Rosenberg is an activist with Direct Action Everywhere (DxE), a Bay Area-based animal rights organization. In addition to supporting ballot propositions and hosting conferences, DxE carries out undercover investigations of slaughterhouses and factory farms. In some cases, its activists rescue ill and imperiled animals from such facilities; this is what's known as "open rescue," a popular tactic among some animal rights activists.
The prospect of risking prison time for saving a few chickens, who are routinely sold for less than $20 apiece, may seem outlandish. But DxE activists like Rosenberg see it as a necessary risk to accomplish their ultimate goal: the complete abolition of slaughterhouses and factory farms.
"I think that if people don't take action and don't risk their freedom to create change, nothing will ever change," Rosenberg, who's currently wearing an ankle monitor while out on bail, tells Sentient. "We've seen time and time throughout history that it has been the sacrifices of the very few that have changed the world."
Petaluma Poultry did not respond to Sentient's request for comment on this story, but a company spokesperson denied DxE's claims to the San Francisco Chronicle, characterizing the group as "extremist" and its efforts as "theft."
What Is Open Rescue?
In essence, open rescue is the act of removing animals from dangerous or harmful environments without permission from the person, company or facility that oversees said animals. Those who carry out open rescues don't hide what they are doing, and often publicize their actions. Animals that are removed via open rescue are typically provided with medical care and/or taken to animal sanctuaries.
The goal of open rescues, which date back to at least the early 1980s, is not only to provide relief for the animals in question, but also to highlight the conditions in which farm animals are held, and to normalize the act of rescuing them. But it's a controversial practice, even among activists, and law enforcement officials generally treat open rescues as acts of theft, trespassing or other crimes.
This often leads to prosecution, but in the eyes of open rescue advocates, this isn't entirely a bad thing. Prosecutions often bring media attention and publicity to both the topic in question and the relevant laws surrounding that topic. Rosenberg's case, for instance, draws attention not only to the conditions of factory farms, but also to the fact that removing a few sick animals from a slaughterhouse can get you a half a decade in prison.
Do People Usually Go to Prison for Open Rescue?
Although charges are often brought in open rescue cases, they're frequently reduced or, in some cases, dropped entirely before trial. It's not uncommon for open rescuers to be acquitted, either; in a verdict that drew international headlines, DxE founder Wayne Hsiung and another defendant were facing 60 years in prison for rescuing two sick piglets from a Smithfield Farms facility in Utah, only to be acquitted of all charges.
That said, Hsiung did recently spend 38 days in Sonoma County jail for an open rescue in which he participated, so it's not unheard of for activists like Rosenberg to serve time for carrying out open rescues.
The Incident in Question
On June 13, 2023, Rosenberg entered a Petaluma Poultry slaughterhouse partially disguised as an employee. A truck delivering chickens to the facility was parked outside, and Rosenberg spotted four chickens in the back of the truck who she says were "covered in scratches and bruises." She took them from the truck, left the slaughterhouse and both she and DxE publicized her actions on social media.
Rosenberg says that she intentionally took the chickens that "seemed like they most needed medical attention." Subsequent examinations found that all four birds were infected with Coccidia parasites; one of them also had a respiratory infection and an injured toe, while a third had a foot infection.
Five months later, Rosenberg was arrested and charged with five felonies relating to the June 13 rescue. These charges were later reduced, and as of this writing, she faces one felony conspiracy charge, two forms of misdemeanor trespassing charges, one misdemeanor theft charge and one misdemeanor charge of tampering with a vehicle. Her trial is scheduled for September 15, 2025.
The chickens she rescued were all treated for their illnesses, and are now living at an animal sanctuary.
A History of Animal Neglect At Petaluma Poultry
Petaluma Poultry, a subsidiary of the chicken giant Perdue, presents itself as a humane operation where, in the words of its website, "chickens are free to be chickens."
"Our houses are spacious, with room for birds to move about and exhibit normal behaviors in a low-stress environment open to fresh air," the company's website says. "Our outdoor spaces are at least half the size of the poultry house, and typically as big as the barn itself."
But Petaluma Poultry's advertising is a classic example of humane-washing, when companies try to appeal to animal welfare-minded consumers by depicting their products as more humanely produced than they actually are.
Petaluma Poultry and its contractors have been accused of criminal animal cruelty on a number of occasions, and footage filmed by undercover investigators in the company's farms and slaughterhouse paints a much different picture than the company's marketing.
In 2018, a whistleblower provided DxE with footage from McCoy's Poultry, a factory farm contracted by Petaluma Poultry, that showed chickens collapsed on the ground, unable to stand or walk and surrounded by the corpses of other chickens. Shortly thereafter, Sonoma County Animal Services seized 15 chickens from McCoy's Poultry; six were already dead, while the other nine were injured, malnourished, unable to stand and exhibited signs of distress, according to a subsequent medical report. The facility was later shut down.
In 2023, another activist who infiltrated Petaluma Poultry's slaughterhouse said that she saw workers cutting into chickens while they were still alive, as well as evidence that chickens had been abused, tortured and boiled alive during the slaughter process. They also obtained documents showing that, on a single day in April, over 1,000 chickens were deemed unfit for human consumption after they were slaughtered due to suspicion that they had blood poisoning.
Prior to her arrest for the June incident, Rosenberg herself was involved in a separate DxE investigation of a Petaluma Poultry facility in 2023, where she recorded footage of more chickens suffering in the facility.
"I documented chickens who were collapsed on the floor of their factory farms, too weak to stand, unable to get to food and water, and slowly dying of starvation and dehydration," Rosenberg says. She ended up rescuing two of those chickens as well, both of whom required extensive medical care.
It remains unclear whether authorities prosecuting or investigating these allegations of criminal animal cruelty? And if not, how come?
Rosenberg Raised Allegations of Animal Welfare Abuses
Poultry is the most widely consumed meat in the U.S. and the world, yet there are no federal laws that protect livestock chickens from mistreatment on the farm. The Humane Slaughter Act establishes some baseline requirements for the treatment of livestock, but it specifically exempts chickens from these protections.
In California, however, livestock chickens are protected under a number of different laws. In addition to Proposition 12, which requires poultry producers to give egg-laying hens a specific amount of living space, Section 597(b) of California's penal code makes it a felony to subject an animal to "needless suffering" or deprive them of access to sufficient food or water, among other things.
This law would appear to be relevant in the context of Petaluma Poultry. If a chicken at a factory farm is physically unable to stand (let alone walk), they will be unable to reach the feeding trays and water, and will eventually die of thirst or starvation. If a chicken is boiled alive because they were improperly stunned beforehand, it has suffered needlessly.
The aforementioned investigations uncovered evidence of both of these things happening at Petaluma Poultry and its contracted facilities. Both DxE and Rosenberg claim they've presented multiple law enforcement agencies with this evidence, only to be rebuffed or ignored.
"The most common thing we've had is agencies directing us to another agency, directing us to another agency, directing us back to the place where we started, and just kind of sending us around in circles," Rosenberg says. "We didn't get any helpful response. No one took action."
It was this inaction that led Rosenberg to take the four chickens from the back of the truck in June, she says. After doing so, she again presented her findings to law enforcement, specifically the Petaluma Police Department. This time, she got a response.
"They said they had a detective who wanted to have a call with me, and so I had like a 15-minute call with a detective from the Petaluma Police Department," Rosenberg says. "She very much approached the call from an angle of, you know, 'I'm concerned about the reports you are making.' And so I told her about the animal cruelty that has been documented there."
But Officer Corie Joerger, the detective in question, didn't follow up with her after their call, Rosenberg claims, and ignored her subsequent attempts at communication. A couple of weeks later, Joerger handed Rosenberg a warrant for her arrest regarding the June rescue.
In the preliminary hearing for Rosenberg's case, Joerger acknowledged that Rosenberg had made allegations of animal cruelty, but stated that she did not investigate the matter.
This inaction by law enforcement wasn't an isolated incident. When the investigation at McCoy's Poultry facility uncovered dead birds on the farm floor and others that were unable to move, Sonoma County Animal Services referred the matter to the county sheriff's office for potential prosecution. But no prosecution followed then, either.
Sentient has reached out to the Sonoma County Sheriff's Office, the Petaluma Police Department and Joerger for clarification on these reports, but as of this writing, none have offered any comments.
Petaluma Poultry Is More the Rule Than the Exception
The allegations against Petaluma Poultry might sound extreme. But in fact, many are par for the course on factory farms, and chicken farms in particular.
For instance, the USDA estimates that every year, around 825,000 chickens are boiled alive at slaughterhouses. This is not standard protocol, but rather, the result of standard protocol gone wrong.
At poultry slaughterhouses, chickens are typically hung upside down by their feet and pulled through an electrified pool of water, which is meant to stun them. After that, workers slit the chickens' throats, and after they've bled out, they're placed into boiling water. This is to soften the skin and make it easier to defeather them.
That's how it's supposed to work, at least. In actuality, though, one or both of those first two steps often fail; chickens are either inadequately stunned before their throats are cut, or their throats aren't fully slit, or both. When both of these processes fail, the chicken is inadvertently boiled alive, and feels every bit of pain associated with this.
Similarly, the fact that those chickens at Petaluma Poultry couldn't stand up or walk isn't an accident. Over the decades, farmers have selectively bred chickens to be as fat as possible, as this maximizes the amount of meat they can sell. According to the National Chicken Council, farmed chickens now grow to be over twice as large as they were 100 years ago in less than half the time.
This unnatural rate of growth has wrought havoc on their internal biology, however, and farm chickens now routinely suffer from a number of illnesses and adverse health conditions as a result, including bone deformities, heart attacks, chronic hunger, ruptured tendons and, most relevantly to Petaluma Poultry, difficulty standing up or walking.
Finally, Petaluma Poultry is far from the only chicken producer to make questionable use of the "free-range" label, which is ostensibly regulated by the USDA. In 2023, undercover footage taken from a Tyson Foods-contracted chicken farm in Virginia depicted employees of both the factory and Tyson freely acknowledging that the "free range" label doesn't actually mean anything, and that "free range" birds often "don't go outside."
Why Wasn't Petaluma Poultry Investigated by Law Enforcement?
Though it's unclear why local law enforcement hasn't pursued any investigations into the allegations against Petaluma Poultry, DxE's director of communications has some ideas.
"It would be a massive undertaking for any government agency, no matter how well-staffed they actually might be, to suddenly address the systemic animal cruelty that we know is happening in factory farms," Cassie King, director of communications at DxE tells Sentient. "If they put their foot in the door and acknowledge that it's their responsibility to address these crimes, then there's a landslide of new cases they need to take on, and it's just a huge amount of work."
It also bears mentioning that chicken farms are an enormous part of Petaluma's local economy, and have been for quite some time. Once referred to as "the egg basket of the world," Petaluma was the birthplace of several egg-related technologies at the turn of the century, and pumped out over a half a billion eggs every year at its peak in 1945.
Although the city isn't quite the egg powerhouse it once was, chickens are still big business in Petaluma. Though official estimates are difficult to come by, the city is home to at least seven chicken farms large enough to qualify as factory farms, and those facilities collectively house around 1.8 million chickens at any given time, according to a 2024 analysis by an activist group that opposes factory farms.
To be clear, there's no evidence that the poultry industry's strong presence in Petaluma has played any role in law enforcement's response to allegations of cruelty at the city's chicken farms. But the fact that the Petaluma Police Department publicly celebrates the city's poultry industry, and participates in the annual Butter and Eggs Day festival in a non-law enforcement capacity, is not lost on DxE activists.
Rosenberg Awaiting Trial
For her part, Rosenberg maintains that her actions were legal. She cites the doctrine of necessity, a legal theory holding that it's sometimes permissible to break a law if doing so prevents even greater harm from occurring.
"For example, if a kid is drowning in your neighbor's pool and no one is helping that kid, you have the right to trespass into your neighbor's yard to rescue the kid," Rosenberg says.
How this defense plays out in court remains to be seen, but it's essentially the same argument Hsiung's attorneys successfully used in the Utah case. In the meantime, Rosenberg says she's been encouraged by the public reaction to her case (Paris Hilton is a prominent supporter), and doesn't regret her actions even if they do land her in prison.
"A few years of my freedom is worth significantly less than even one animal's entire life, and certainly less than four animals' entire lives," Rosenberg says. "And so it's absolutely worth it to me on that level."
Seth Millstein wrote this article for Sentient.
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